Barolo bar 2014 at Maialino NYC

What better way is there to spend a late afternoon in New York than looking out into Gramercy Park

and tasting through this epic list of Barolo by the glass at Bar Maialino. 

Tasting these big name Nebbiolo's side by side was a soothing experience that was a much needed contrast to the usual chaotic tasting room scene one hurriedly darts through in Manhattan. The photo of the below list can speak for itself but there were some surprises of course.

The 1999 Bartolo Mascarello was drinking the best for me. 1999 was a classic vintage in the Langhe and the consistency I have found with Bartolo Mascarello Barolo's is unmatched by any other producer in my opinion.  They have also bottled an insane 2003 Barolo in such a difficult vintage and you'll see most other producers are already drinking past their peaks with that very hot and over ripe vintage of 2003.  Bartolo sources the grapes from the vineyards of Canubbi, San Lorenzo, Rue and Rocche' and is always a blended Barolo.

The 2003 Giacomo Conterno, Cascina Francia was showing a very promising aromatic profile from the glass.  A delicious balance of fruit, herbs and spice, but on the palate fell very short.  There really is no structure or length for this expression of 2003, but is still delicious to chug down with food if you just want a tasty Barolo without thinking too hard about it (for $39 a glass).

The Giuseppe Mascarello, Monprivato 2005 was another favorite of mine at the bar.  This beast from Castiglione Falleto was showing a nice bloody muscular side of Barolo and was still very young and big but also generously food friendly.

At the beginning we started off with a taste of the 2007 Fratelli Alessandria, Monvigliero.  Monvigliero is the prized single vineyard in the northern Verduno area of Barolo and is known for its greatly aromatic wines that also bring a firm backbone and great complexity.  This wine did not let us down.  It was showing that amazing Langhe bouquet while still being very traditional and approachable for such a young wine.  A step lighter in body than some of the big hitters on the list but Monvigliero for me is delivering some promising and exciting wines for the market here in the United States.

The 2000 Giuseppe Rinaldi, Brunate-Le Coste was a wine I was so looking forward to tasting.  They are one of the most sought-after and prized of all the Barolos.  When they are on point they are fucking amazing and life changing but there definitely isn't the consistency I see in a producer like Bartolo Mascarello.  This wine was pretty wild.  At first it had a big chemically wet paint and truffle aroma almost coming off as a touch of volatile acidity.  The harshest of it blew off after a minute in the glass but it was still an amazing wine to meditate over.  It had very beautiful layers and was insanely complex but I have to like the Bartolo over this wine because of its absolute harmony and togetherness.  I was sipping with a few Maialino employees at the bar and was informed that it wasn't just this bottle that was showing the slight V.A.

As of 2010 Rinaldi's Barolo will be labeled as just "Brunate" and "Tre Tine" as the law no longer permits two vineyards on a single label.


Happy Nebbiolo Season! I hope to be back soon.

Francesco Rinaldi, the meaning of ''Cannubbio''

During a reunion of friends and past Maialino wine team colleagues, we sampled from a beautiful roman menu and were fortunate to get served some memorable Nebbiolo from wine director, Jeff Kellogg.

After quenching our Champagne thirst we dove into two Nebbiolo's, a 1989 Francesco Rinaldi Barolo ''Cannubbio'', followed by a 1974 Oddero Barolo.

The '74 Oddero was drinking right around its peak, perhaps a touch past.  A bit thinner than the Rinaldi with an edgier acidity, tasting like a cigarette was put out in a shot of half cherry liquer half swamp water with a garnish of taleggio rind… you know in a delicious way though.

The Cannubbio from Rinaldi was one of the top five Nebbiolo's I have ever consumed no doubt.
Swampy cherries, with a gigantic liquorish bouquet, morphing into dark chocolate and tar, with a background of wilting roses.  Medium and long in body with still a large, youthful mid palate and gorgeous acidity that will allow this bad guy to age for at least 20 more years.  Drinking this wine was like riding an everlasting Nebbiolo wave.

What and where is Cannubbio?

After some research and a read through the Slowfood book,  ''a wine atlas of the Langhe'', I was surprised to find no easy answers regarding the intentions of ''Cannubbio'' on Rinaldi's Barolo labels.
I found three websites all providing different information about Cannubbio, Cannubi and Cannubi Boschis.

I Emailed over to the Francesco Rinaldi winery in Barolo to find out the deal, Paola responded as follows…

''Cannubbio was the old name used for this area (we found it in old documents and books). The modern name is Cannubi (on the maps starting with vintage 2010). Our old vintages are Barolo Cannubbio and our Barolo 2010 is Cannubi. We own nearly 2 hectars in Cannubi boschis  (the first part of the hill) and a small part in Cannubi (in the middle of the hill)…

In the article Battling bureaucracy in Barolo, Jancis Robinson writes about the controversial change Giuseppe Rinaldi was forced into.  As of 2010 they can no longer label a Barolo ''Brunate-Le Coste'' because of two vineyards appearing on the label (It seems the 2010 will be labeled Brunate but will contain a blend of 15% Le-Coste grapes.) But as far as Cannubi goes, it seems to be okay to label a Barolo ''Cannubi'' even if its coming from the Cannubi Boschis (aka Monghisolfo) or other surrounding Cannubi sub zone vineyards. 

My friend Alfonso Cevola wrote on the current state of Cannubi itself a couple of years ago in an article To Cannubi or not to Cannubi? where he was coming up with at least 25 hectares of wine being labeled Cannubi even though it is an area of 15 hectares.

I guess this is all a classic example of how strange, unorganized and controversial Italian wine is.  I originally only wanted to share a few amazing wines I recently drank and the cannubbio gods took me on a never-ending tangent.  And I guess after three days of searching my original idea of ''sure, cannubbio is synonymous with cannubi right? hasn't really changed that much.

Happy Nebbiolo drinking

Tokyo. Remembering the two best culinary experiences of my life, in one day.

The flawless fatty tuna at Sushi Dai in the Tsukiji Fish Market.

The two single best culinary/dining experiences of my life at 29 years old happened in one day in Tokyo, Japan.  The first was a sushi breakfast at 8 am in a tiny little place and the second happened 12 hours later in a fine dining restaurant.

The following is a journal entry from 100 Rolls by Blake Noyes during that magically tasteful day in Tokyo.

After a 3am wake-up call and a sip or two of some Japanese whiskey we set off for the Tsukiji fish market. Somehow we wandered in the right direction and found ourselves in a huge, dark complex of warehouses with every sea creature under the sun in what seemed to be millions of boxes and crates. Total sensory overload. Gasoline, cigarettes and raw fish. Squeaking styrofoam and screaming fishermen. Dismissive hand gestures and dangerous hand carts. 

The sights, sounds and smells were unlike anything we’d ever seen.

And the flavors? Well after being politely “excused” from the grounds by various security officers we wound up in a line about 20 people deep for Sushi Dai - an 11-seat sushi bar renowned for their omakase menu featuring the chefs favorites from that night/morning’s catch.

Still only 5am mind you. 1 hour goes by. Then 2. Then 3. Luckily we had run into some friends from NYC (shout out to chefs Ben and Sara) to help pass the time. By 8:30 we were crammed into this hole-in-the-wall joint tucked away in an alley and had the best sushi meal of our collective lives. We all agreed. Quite the breakfast.

Here are some shots of the sushi served up by the very talented, comedian sushi chefs

After a pitstop at the hotel it was off to the Ryogoku Kokugikan Grand Tournament to see some classic sumo wrestling matches. Again, quite the sight to see.

Then it was the red light district by Shinjuku Station...

We finished the night off at Kyubey, another small sushi bar, this time in the Ginza neighborhood. Here the service and location were much more polished but once more, another stellar meal. It may be a bitter-sweet thing that happened, but it made for the second best sushi meal of our lives. And they happened on the same day, not even 13 hours apart from one another. Many thanks to Chef Takeshima and his crew.

We were ambitious with our plans for the club scene, but it was probably for the best that we called it a night after that 21 hour marathon.

Here we are… Nico, Blake, and James with Chef and server at Kyubey.

Cheers from the 333, #AsianTouringClub2013

Missing the Piedmontese life in New York City.

During my Journey back to America from my South East Asia Adventures I received some photos from friends enjoying a Piedmontese life at Maialino in New York City.  Damn, these are two things that I will never feel bad about when returning to the city.

White Alba truffles and baseball, Maialino New York City.

Some 1971 Oddero Barolo is poured at Maialino to compliment the seasons white truffles.

Sunset in Bushwick followed by a Smokin' 2008 Gevrey-Chambertin at Boulud

 Above, That spring feeling in the air with a rooftop spritz, Bushwick, Brooklyn.

Later, we dined at Bar Boulud which was a pretty memorable charcuterie experience.  Also happened to open two memorable wines.

Starting with a 2011 Chablis from Domaine Pattes Loup, who practice organic viticulture, we were sold on it as soon as Sommelier Eduardo described it as fresh, and like tapping a glacier.  It really brought a whole new style of freshness and acidity to chablis that I have never tasted.

The second bottle made its way to our table in the form of Philippe Livera, Domaine Des Tilleuls, Gevrey-Chambertin, Clos Village 2008.  After this bottle I am sold on 2008 red Burgundy, for however long it lasts the wines at village level from this vintage are really expressing themselves.

In 2005 Damien Livera started estate bottling his wines.  Since the 1930's his grandfather was selling the wines to the Beaune negocient houses.

This bottle was full of sharp toasty notes; like an enticing burnt match that slowly morphed into dark tobacco, cherry and leather with amazing acidity. Really food friendly as well, gorgeous stuff this night.

Bar Boulud
1900 Broadway, New York, NY 10023

Pies and Thighs, Brooklyn.

Above, the epic Chicken Biscuit, with hot sauce and honey butter... Loch Ness?


What happens to be a very popular restaurant practically in my backyard, I have only been to Pies and Thighs twice.  On the weekends there is always a swarm of people outside with an hour or two of waiting ahead of them.  I stopped in on a Friday afternoon though for a much calmer and enjoyable experience than the Saturday/Sunday NYC brunch madness that i wish to not take part in.

The food is southern, delicious, and affordable.  Pictured below: Chicken Biscuit, Rob Evans on a Biscuit (with sausage gravy), Fried Pickles, Raised Donut, Iced Coffee and a really satisfying Mimosa.

166 S.4TH STREET (@DRIGGS)
BROOKLYN NY 11211
(347-529-6090)

2003 Bartolo Mascarello and white truffles

While tasting a flight of Nebbiolo based wines tonight at Maialino, I finally went for it and ordered some white truffles. House made Tonnarelli done in butter, a touch of Parmigiano Reggiano and finished with the sacred whites truffles from Alba shaved gently over the top.
Ragazzi, che meraviglia...

I saved the Bartolo Mascarello tasting for the arrival of the white truffles.  The 2003 we are currently pouring by the glass at Maialino, along with about 15 other amazing Nebbiolo based wines on the Enomatic Nebbiolo Bar.  Bartolo for $140 a bottle in a NYC restaurant is quite a steal!  This wine is very aromatic right off the bat with classic roses, earth, tar and liquorish.  The acidity is still brilliant and it is a no-brainer when it comes to a pairing with tartufi bianchi di Alba.

But 2003?  Yes an overall shit year, being overly hot and resulting in scorched vineyards, but true producers were able to put together some fine wines which are drinking gorgeously right now at only 9 years out.  Where I have tasted some B. Mascarello from finer and more talked about vintages such as 97, 98 and 2000 they can go through unfortunate stages where they are completely closed and inexpressive.

This type of experience can definitely make one rethink the whole process of selecting a vintage, especially in a restaurant setting where sometimes the underdog vintage will triumph in the end.

Last day in Milan, One last Bollito Misto at Al' Less

 

Last night, after multiple days of exhausting parties in Modena and Bologna I walked into Al' Less on a rainy Sunday night in Milan.  I knew we weren't going to walk far for dinner and luckily it was located quite close to Piazza Piola where I was staying with an Italian friend.

As soon as you step into the place you feel a rush of creative energy as the building is decorated very artistically and precise.  After this it is normal to feel a great appetite striking you the moment you smell the aromas from the kitchen which is located in the dead center of the restaurant.

Wine from Oltrepo' Pavese Pinot Nero and Bonarda were the popular choices of the restaurant.  This region just south of Milan by the river Po' is also known for its Sparkling wine from Pinot Nero grapes. The legendary Bruno Giacosa sources his Pinot Nero from this area for the production of his vintage Spumante Extra Brut made in the Metodo Classico.

As for the food, a small to medium menu with a wonderful collection of creative Northern Italian recipes.  Primi consisted of homemade pastas such as I pisarei e fasò (a type of gnocchi typical of Piacenza cooked with beans and Parmigiano Reggiano), Agnolotti in brodo and I tortelli alla Maremmana (delicate Tortelli stuffed with ricotta and spinach dressed with a wild boar ragù) which is what we went for.

I Secondi are a wonderful display of mouthwatering meat dishes like Lo stracotto di vitello al Barolo, Il brasato di puledro (puledro or cucciolo del cavallo would be a foal or baby horse from around 11 months old), Il cinghiale in dolceforte and finally the two dishes we ordered, La carne Salada con arancio, timo e limone (a cured meat from the Trentino, with its unique texture resembles more a type of carne cruda or carpaccio) and of course the dish for which Al' Less is known for, their Bollito Misto coming with four gorgeous salsette to dress the boiled meats ranging from chicken to beef toungue.

Everything was tasty, fresh and seasoned perfect.  For dessert there were some unique options like Salame di ciocolato and Castagnaccio (the Tuscan chestnut cake with pinenuts and rosemary).

La carne salada del trentino, served with tyme over a salad dressed in olive oil and orange.

Bollito Misto, the signature dish of Al' Less which comes with  four delicious salsette including the classic salsa verde.


Al' Less 
V.Le Lombardia 28
20131 Milano, Italia

Scenes from Il Buco Alimentari, an amazing dinner with grey wine.

A view towards the dining room and kitchen of Il Buco Alimentari from the bar area.

After an amazing day at the Fort Tilden Beach on the hottest day of the year so far, I found myself at Il Buco Alimentari e Vineria in NoHo to spend the remainder of the Summer Solstice.  I dined with my colleague Simran who agreed we both needed a redemption dinner after a flawed experience a few weeks ago.  

The wine list was not super, rather limited, but I found my eyes fixated on a handful of Radikon wines and I wanted nothing else on this humid night.  I went with the skin contact 2009 Radikon Pinot Grigio.  Some may want to call this an ''orange wine'', or perhaps a ''ramato''.  I'd say it was a more florescent magenta, almost the colour of the Tuna Cruda below.  On this night we referred to it as grey wine, after all Pinot Grigio translates to Grey which is referring to the colour of it's skins. The wine had a gorgeous mouthfeel, at first chilled and delicious, but then opening up its stone fruits and depth all with that classic Radikon oxidative note as it warmed slightly.

The dinner was all around incredible; the combination of food and wine couldn't have been better last night.  The menu was that perfect combination of traditional italian cooking, balanced by local ingredients that make for simple and fresh spring time dishes.  A very memorable dinner in the city with a good pal, talking travels, talking shit, and celebrating the summer.  I will now leave this to the photos,  (mediocre quality, shot with an Iphone) everything we ate last night...

2009 Radikon Pinot Grigio.  Otto giorni a contatto con le bucce, 18 mesi in Botti di rovere da 35 HL.

Salumi Della Casa, all the cured meats made in house.

The fabulous colour of Radikon Pinot Grigio.

Crudo, bigeye tuna, green radish, cucumber, limequat.

Ricotta, sugarsnap peas, pine nut granola, mint.

Gnudi, ricotta, english peas, parmigiano.

Spaghetti (Pasificio Gentile) con bottarga di muggine

Pecorino allo Zafferano.

Simran, mysteriously gazing...

Zabaione.

Ronchi di Cialla Verduzzo 2005, incredible acidity and length here.

Un Caffe' per finire...

Il Buco Alimentari e Vineria

53 Great Jones Street

New York, NY 10012

Where to find yourself some carbonara pizza in New York!

This week at Maialino, the Roman Trattoria in the Gramercy Park Hotel, the chefs have put together a magical pizza for the late night menu (starting at 10pm).  House cured Pancetta and béchamel sauce on top of pizza bianca with a soft egg yolk and finished off with Pecorino Romano cheese.  12 bucks gets you a piece of the Carbonara Pizza and a frosty Ama Bionda, The Artisinal beer designed by Brooklyn Brewmaster Garrett Oliver for Amarcord Brewery in Apecchio, Italy.

un calice di rose' a Bar Jamon

Bar Jamon
125 E 17th St.
New York, NY.

Pic Saint Loup Ermitage and the Garrigue Effect

Over the last couple of months my roommates and I noticed this very petit bistro slowly pop up in our turf of Williamsburg.  Bistro Petit. After pointing fun at this tiny business for a few weeks my mate Jimmy sprung it on me to give it a try on a quiet Sunday evening.  I first checked some Yelp reviews because I was very hesitant, and every single one raved about it even going as far as claiming best spot in Williamsburg.

We left our apartment and one block away there is Bistro Petit.  Some of the interesting notes about this restaurant are NO BATHROOM, NO TAP WATER, NO BOOZE, but thankfully BYO no corkage charged.  The baby blue tiles await you with a very small but interesting menu including a kobe burger, lamb shank, homemade pasta and duck confit. It is a truly intimate restaurant and grasps the feeling of your go to small local eatery where you can unwind with whatever the hell you want to drink.

This time around on a Tuesday night, after barely sneaking into a spot at this twelve person capacity restaurant I brought a bottle of 2009 Ermitage du Pic Saint Loup ($17).

The Ermitage is a blend of 50% Syrah, 40% Grenache and 10% Mouvedre from the Languedoc.  Since 1999 the Ravaille brothers have been practicing Biodynamics, and mainly traditional techniques.  This wine had beautiful fruit and mouthfeel with a touch of femininity that was reminiscent of some Paolo Bea wines.  The nose was strongly muddy and herbal, which with some research I discovered the meaning of Garrigue.

The word Garrigue refers to the windswept hilltops around Provence which include scrub-brush and Provencal herbs.  It's used in wine tasting to describe the notes of rosemary, fennel, thyme, lavender and lemon verbena that are typically found in red wines from Provence and The Languedoc.  What an amazing sensation in this wine and with it I ordered the duck confit which I had planned at the end of my last trip. All so very delicious together.

Above, Chef Park at Bistro Petit
South 3rd and Driggs of Williamsburg.
Brooklyn, NY