A lineup of Donkey and Goat in the Berkshires

''Our Chardonnay doesn't taste like pineapple, and it shouldn't.'' 

-Tracey Brandt, on their Chablis inspired Chardonnay.

Attempting to escape the madness and the fast pace of New York, I found myself on a very gloomy Wednesday, taking the Amtrak north to The Berkshires.  I had a few plans and a dinner for my fathers birthday, but didn't imagine I would run into Tracey Brandt from Donkey and Goat Winery.  My good wine pal Caitlin Harrison (who worked some days in their winery a few years back) invited me over to Great Barrington, Ma for a quick tasting with Tracey and Amanda Schark of Charles River Wine Co, who will be distributing the wines for Massachusetts.

Located in Berkeley California, Donkey and Goat Winery is owned and operated by Tracey and her husband Jared Brandt.  They produce french influenced natural wine that are some of the best California wines I have tasted, as far as my palate is concerned.

The 2010 Sluice Box was brilliant, a blend of 62% Marsanne, 25% Skin Fermented Grenache Blanc, and 18% Vermentino.  Thick, almost milky on the palate with notes of lemon peel and a beautiful easy drinking acidity.  They now have enough Vermentino planted to bottle it by itself and they are pondering a 50 case production varietal wine... I say YES!

The 2010 Chardonnay will be the last bottling from the Brosseau vineyard in Monterey, which was the south most source for their wines.  The limestone rich appellation was the original purpose for sourcing the grapes there, to produce a Chablis style Chardonnay.  This was one bad ass wine, the best part was that you still tasted California in the glass, but just not in a buttery, messy kind of way.  Luscious, a touch spicy and almost full body but with a zippy acidity as if a frenchman were trotting through the vineyards of Monterey.  Tracey said they have already found new Chardonnay vineyards that will be much more accommodating for future production.  

Above, is the Five Thirteen Chateauneuf-du-Pape style red blend.  They use five of the thirteen permitted grapes in Chateauneuf: Grenache, Syrah, Mourvedre, Counoise and Cinsault, a perfect spring and summer grilling kinda wine.  Thanks Tracey and Caitlin, it was truly an amazing tasting and dinner chatting about wine and travels!

Un Compleanno... Non da solo ma con una boccia di Krug!

im not ashamed... Krug is a guilty pleasure of mine...

As midnight struck turning me 27, I looked around.. everybody was gone except a lonely bottle of Champagne. Soon we became friends, and I was beginning to understand my love for Krug... I will take it any day over Dom Perignon.  So often are luxury goods over rated and nothing near what they are talked up to be.  For me this is an exception. Although usually not a fan of grand oakyness the Krug grand cuvee (a blend of Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier) fermented completely in small oak casks really shows the harmonious side of OAK.  The wine dances on your tongue and the components play together like a symphony.

All I need in this life of sin... is me and some Krug

Some of the wines opened tonight.  The 1999 Marcassin Pinot Noir was nice upon opening had a rich barnyard smell with dirty fruits.  Within only 10 minutes It completely cleaned up with bright red fruits and violets as if it had jumped in the shower, shaved put on a tie and said ''okay, I'm ready for ya!''.

Recent tastings over in the Berkshires

Here is a photo and some recent notes of whats been flowing over in the berkshires at Blantyre, sent by Sommelier Luc Chevalier.

Marcassin , “Marcassin Vineyard”1999

Pinot Noir, Sonoma Coast,California

Right from the start the intensity of the fruit are prevalent, open 1hr before, marvelous ruby red, transparent, chocolate on the nose, superb silkiness and a touch of cinnamon  

Good to have with fish in a red wine sauce, duck, fowl and chicken in a natural jus.

 

Chambertin Grand Cru, “Clos de Bèze” Camille Giroud 2001

Pinot Noir, Côte~de~Nuits, Burgundy, France

Also open 1hr before, Purple color, somewhat of a barn smell at the beginning, opens up well to a earthy flavor, wild grass, black fruit and excellent acidity.

Recommending paring with games of all sort and blue cheese as well.

delusional Chardonnay

If I never see this label again.... 

9 out of 10 people prefer Rombauer Chardonnay.  Who the F is that 1 person hating? ... That person is me, and I'm quite proud of it!  I haven't written much lately, and that is partially the fault of snowboarding every day, and also because, well... I haven't drunk anything worth writing about!  So if you havn't had any positive experiences to write about, that just leaves the negative, right?

Well, after a day of pouring wine at Side Door here in Mammoth I couldn't help but feel a discomfort from one person after another ranting and raving about Rombauer Chardonnay.  ''It's so delicious and yet such a good deal!''  Yes if delicious is a wine that tastes like a Yankee Candle scent, and Yes if $19 a glass is a good deal.  After asking one dude from a group of 7 if he would be the one tasting the just opened Rombauer he exclaimed, ''No just pour the wine.  There's no need to taste it, I know Rombauer.'' .... Okay?  That isn't the point and if you do ''know it so well'', that's all the more reason to taste it first.

That said, everybody has their own palate which is the most beautiful part of the wine world, there is no right or wrong.  But at times you definitely wonder..


in other news...

After a heavy snowstorm the snow is melting fast from a heat wave all week with temperatures in the 60's.  Below, local skaters shovel out the park at the Volcom Brothers Skatepark in Mammoth Lakes.

Saturday tastings, Petrus & Screaming Eagle

Château Pétrus, Pomerol, Bordeaux 1990
Screaming Eagle, Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon, 1993

Château Pétrus, Pomerol, Bordeaux 1990 (100 pts by Robert Parker)
Now producing 100% Merlot wines, this 1990 is a 95% Merlot 5% Cabernet Franc blend.  At one point before the 1960's they would use as much as 20% Cabernet Franc.  This was a great effort ...Pure Pomerol terroir on the nose, fruit closed at first but after an hour opened up nicely.  Showing great elegant Merlot fruit, cocoa, caramel, balanced acidity and lasting long in the mouth.

Screaming Eagle, Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon, 1993
Screaming Eagle hit the market in 1992 with a Cabernet Sauvignon that Robert Parker scored a 99.  After that it was all ''cult'', with unusually high prices on the wines.  This wine was showing beautiful fruits, cherry, plum, dark berries, strong with a bit too much alcohol noticeable, the acidity was nice but not perfectly balanced.

Next weeks tasting:
Château Pichon-Longueville Comtesse de Lalande, 2^ème Cru, Pauillac, Bordeaux 1982
Shafer Vineyards,” Hillside Select”, Stags Leap District, Napa Valley 1996

GAJA Barolo Sperss 1989

Another magical saturday tasting at the castle, in Lenox MA.  This week featuring:

Gaja, Barolo "Sperss" Piedmont, Italy 1989

Earlier in the week i emailed over to GAJA, and received some of the history of Sperss from Angelo Gaja himself....

Sperss 1989

''Avevamo acquistato la proprietà nel giugno 1988,  l’annata 1989 è stata la prima di coltivazione del vigneto condotta integralmente da noi.''

''We acquired the property of Sperss in June of 1988, and the 1989 Vintage was the first year of cultivation of the vineyards which was undergone entirely by us.''

As each of the GAJA single vineyard names have their own story behind them ''Sperss'' is from the Piemontese dialect meaning ''nostalgia''.

Why Nostalgia?

Angelo explains how is father Giovanni (1908-2002) from the ages of 18-20, went to harvest the grapes in the vineyard of Sperss in Serralunga.  He was given food, a place to sleep and even some money.  On the other hand when he was working in his families vineyards in Barbaresco, he wasn't compensated at all.  He imagined his whole life it would be incredible to acquire the Sperss property but the chance never came.  Until one day his son Angelo had the opportunity and his father was ''felicissimo''.  They named the vineyard and the wine ''Sperss'' for the nostalgia Giovanni held throughout a very long period of his life.

The Gaja Sperss wine is 100% Nebbiolo through the vintage of 1995.

From 1996 on Sperss no longer caries the denominazione Barolo DOCG and is made up of 

94% Nebbiolo

6% Barbera

Perchè Barbera?

Angelo explains, ''Before the war and until 1965, there were numerous producers that traditionally were adding little quantities of Barbera to their Barolo and Barbaresco.
The Barbera, doesnt mask or obscure the personality of Nebbiolo, which is dominant.  But it contributes to balancing the acidity which with global warming has been reduced (in comparison to the past).  According to the interpretation of Guido Rivella (responsible for the Gaja cellars) the wine benefits from this integration. (with all due respect to the producers making Barolo with 100% Nebbiolo.)''

 

The extra long cork (63mm or 1½ inches) that Angelo Gaja introduced in 1982

1989 was an excellent year, but only in Piedmont.  In almost all the other Italian wine regions the late maturing of the grapes was hindered by bad weather.
In Piedmont, it threatened to rain for 15 days (it poured rain everywhere else) but then returned to nice weather and it was possible to harvest some grapes which were in great condition.  Because the 1989 vintage was only good in Piedmont (also a few places outside of Italy) it became obscured by the outstanding vintage of 1990 (which was a good vintage worldwide).  

Angelo recommended we open this bottle 1-1½ hrs before pouring, decanting and then immediately pouring back in the bottle and re-corking (double decanting). 

The '89 Sperss was showing nicely with a brick red colour, an enticing gamy nose, and classic ''old nebbiolo'' flavours.  Hints of rose petal, licorice, nice fruit and long fluidity on the palate.  delicious...

Heitz Cellars, "Martha's Vineyard," Napa Valley, California 1989
 
With all the excitement of tasting an old Gaja wine, I wasnt too stoked on the Heitz, it wasnt showing so hot.. although well rounded and spicy, just not much complexity and the fruit was lost a little.  Maybe past it's peak for '89 vintage....

Stay tuned for next week:

November 27th, 2010

Château Pétrus, Pommerol, Bordeaux 1990
Screaming Eagle, Napa Valley, California 1993

tasting 1985 Sassicaia, and 100 point wines

had the chance to taste four ''big shot'' wines this week... here are some brief notes

1985 Sassicaia
1994 Harlan Cabernet Sauvignon
1995 Domaine Ramonet Montrachet
1995 Royal Tokaji Aszú Essencia Tokaji

1985 Teunuta San Guido Sassicaia (vino da tavola)

WS 100

RP 100

24 months in french oak

85% cabernet sauvignon

15% cabernet franc

First released in 1968

This wine was really stunning.  The first of any 100 point rated wine I was able to taste.  After tasting a disapointing 2002 Sassicaia, this wine really put its money where its mouth is.

The fruit, so vibrant, alive, young and as fresh as if just picked off the vine.  Yet with the depth and complexity of a 1985 bordeaux.  Beautiful frutti di bosco here, gorgeous and elegant black pepper, tobacco, spice. big finish and lonnnnng lasting in the mouth..  delicious ''table wine''.

1994 Harlan Estate Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon

WS 97

RP 100

This cult wine was another story..  It was very enjoyable, some nice elegant sour cherry notes.. but nothing mind blowing, and nothing too complex. Loses focus in the finish, A bit disapointing..

For being a 100 point wine.. there is just no comparison to the Sassicaia, nowhere near as complex and balanced.  Maybe going through a bad drinking phase, but its hard to say.

1995 Domaine Ramonet Montrachet Grand Cru

This Montrachet was so exciting to drink.  After tasting the huge and premature DRC 2005 Montrachet, and then this D. Ramonet Montrachet aged 10 years more, it made a great comparison.

The young Montrachet I have tasted has a very distinct almond and almost burnt hair to it, with fruit waiting to burst out.  With this 1995 you see how after aging, those harsher notes turn into a very long and elegant toasted almond that is so enticing.  The fruit and complexity here is stunning, and you cant believe your drinking a chardonnay!  This is what chardonnay is my friends...

1995 Royal Tokaji Aszú Essencia Tokaji

This gorgeous dessert wine from Hungary dating back to the 16 century, is made by using the grapes affected by noble rot.  This 1995 vintage Tokaji, is a dessert in itself.. thick as maple syrup (and i would pour it on my pancakes if I was all out of syrup), delicious stuff... 

cheers to everyone reading!