From one cantina to another we discovered that Franciacorta winemakers are doing a lot of experimenting. Here is an example of Matteo Gatti of Ferghettina disgorging a 2006 Brut that has been hanging onto the lees for ten years. They dedicate a section of their cellar they call the library for saving bottles and playing with aging capabilities.
venerdì 7 ottobre 2016
venerdì 23 settembre 2016
|The wavy vineyards of Ronco Calino in the backyard of the winery|
Consistancy and quality is a huge stand out here in Franciacorta and you can see it from a smaller 70,000 bottle producer like Ronco Calino all the way to the gigantic 1.5 million bottle production of Ca' del Bosco.
|Ferghettinas square bottle in the lights of the cellar|
There are also many unique styles in production from one winery to the next. Mosnel swears by their horizontal stainless steel tanks to achieve more complexity. They have some of the most drinkable and refreshing yet complex wines of the trip. Ca' del Bosco puts all of their grapes through a jacuzzi bath to reduce sulfites before they end up in the biggest stainless steel tank I have ever seen in my life. They even add Nitrogen to eliminate the presence of oxygen while Mattia Vezzola of Bellavista purposely adds oxygen to the must with his unique method to eliminate impurities, a campaign they call "air your wine". Another interesting idea comes from Matteo Gatti of Ferghettina who patented a square bottle so there is more surface area for the wine to come in contact with the lees. The Ferghettina winery is a great example of not judging a book by its cover and if you dig deeper into their story it is a truly fascinating one. While most of the Franciacorta producers have an Industrial background in common, the Ferghettina family come from a background of sharecropping.
But, whichever style winery you come across the end product that almost all of the producers want to acheive is a similar one. Fresh, bright, healthy acidity, limited use of oak only for fermentation and usually the least amount of dosage as possible. These are great wines that taste of the land and express the passion and thirst of the winemakers.
|Jeremy next to the epic million bottle Cuvee' Prestige, stainless steel tank at Ca' del Bosco|
giovedì 11 agosto 2016
Domaine Roulot, Monthelie 2014
Perhaps best known for their white wine and Meursault parcels, Domaine Roulot also has .38 hectares located in Monthelie, just north of Meursault in the Côte de Beaune. A great example of trusting an epic producer no matter what they are bottling. The 2014 Monthelie was one of the best new release red wines I have tasted in a long time. Super expresive nose that kept getting better throughout dinner. Tons of minerality, asphalt and purity of red fruits. All of their wines are farmed organically. The pinot noir is destemmed for the Monthelie and the fermentation typically lasts 12 days in open wooden vats and ages 12 to 15 months in barrel-15% new oak. The low yields and strict farming practices delivers an expression of Burgundian purity that is hard to come by. If you can get your hands on any wines from Domaine Roulot, snag a bottle immediately.
martedì 24 maggio 2016
|Borgogno, Langhe Freisa, 2013|
Freisa is the shit because of its ability to be offensive upon immediate evaluation but with time and patience, it will open up and seduce you somehow someway. While sharing similar nebbiolo characteristics it is opposite in approachability and not nearly as obvious in its appeal. Robert Parker once described it as producing totally repugnant wines and that all the more confirms my point of view.
The fun part about freisa is you can discover this lesser known grape of Piedmont made by some of your favorite Barolo producers at a fraction of the price their Nebbiolos would cost.
This freisa by Borgogno was very acidic with sour tannins upon first opening. Still enough fruit to make it drinkable, but the difference after 2 hours was crazy. It became much more inegrated with the delicious salty raspberry fruit that Freisa famously displays. There is some rose and liquorish reminiscent of nebbbiolo and the after bite of tannin that keeps your spirit floating in the langhe of your fantasies.
|The 2012 Giuseppe Mascarello Freisa is another hot steal. Not too hard to find in New York City.|
domenica 1 marzo 2015
sabato 8 novembre 2014
What better way is there to spend a late afternoon in New York than looking out into Gramercy Park
and tasting through this epic list of Barolo by the glass at Bar Maialino.
Tasting these big name Nebbiolo's side by side was a soothing experience that was a much needed contrast to the usual chaotic tasting room scene one hurriedly darts through in Manhattan. The photo of the below list can speak for itself but there were some surprises of course.
The 1999 Bartolo Mascarello was drinking the best for me. 1999 was a classic vintage in the Langhe and the consistency I have found with Bartolo Mascarello Barolo's is unmatched by any other producer in my opinion. They have also bottled an insane 2003 Barolo in such a difficult vintage and you'll see most other producers are already drinking past their peaks with that very hot and over ripe vintage of 2003. Bartolo sources the grapes from the vineyards of Canubbi, San Lorenzo, Rue and Rocche' and is always a blended Barolo.
The 2003 Giacomo Conterno, Cascina Francia was showing a very promising aromatic profile from the glass. A delicious balance of fruit, herbs and spice, but on the palate fell very short. There really is no structure or length for this expression of 2003, but is still delicious to chug down with food if you just want a tasty Barolo without thinking too hard about it (for $39 a glass).
The Giuseppe Mascarello, Monprivato 2005 was another favorite of mine at the bar. This beast from Castiglione Falleto was showing a nice bloody muscular side of Barolo and was still very young and big but also generously food friendly.
At the beginning we started off with a taste of the 2007 Fratelli Alessandria, Monvigliero. Monvigliero is the prized single vineyard in the northern Verduno area of Barolo and is known for its greatly aromatic wines that also bring a firm backbone and great complexity. This wine did not let us down. It was showing that amazing Langhe bouquet while still being very traditional and approachable for such a young wine. A step lighter in body than some of the big hitters on the list but Monvigliero for me is delivering some promising and exciting wines for the market here in the United States.
The 2000 Giuseppe Rinaldi, Brunate-Le Coste was a wine I was so looking forward to tasting. They are one of the most sought-after and prized of all the Barolos. When they are on point they are fucking amazing and life changing but there definitely isn't the consistency I see in a producer like Bartolo Mascarello. This wine was pretty wild. At first it had a big chemically wet paint and truffle aroma almost coming off as a touch of volatile acidity. The harshest of it blew off after a minute in the glass but it was still an amazing wine to meditate over. It had very beautiful layers and was insanely complex but I have to like the Bartolo over this wine because of its absolute harmony and togetherness. I was sipping with a few Maialino employees at the bar and was informed that it wasn't just this bottle that was showing the slight V.A.
As of 2010 Rinaldi's Barolo will be labeled as just "Brunate" and "Tre Tine" as the law no longer permits two vineyards on a single label.
Happy Nebbiolo Season! I hope to be back soon.
lunedì 20 ottobre 2014
Uncorking this 1971 Fontana Fredda Barolo this weekend at Maialino in New York City
was a bit like opening a coffin in The Langhe and experiencing Nebbiolo zombies awakening from the dead to slowly climb into the glass.
At first this wine smelled of rotten corpse, soil and maybe some tar for the sake of tradition. Slowly opening into what reminded me of molded fruit loops covered in forest soil, and eventually into a more focused cherry with long classic Nebbiolo notes but still with a sense of rotting materials. The acid was healthy as hell and the colour was notably a few more notches towards ruby than I expected. I have had 80's Barbaresco and Barolo that were much more orange in colour. But this was a fabulous and memorable wine and I believe we enjoyed the last bottle stocked at Maialino.
lunedì 29 settembre 2014
After shuffling through some 30 to 40 wines at last weeks Domenico Valentino tasting in NYC at
I Trulli restaurant I stopped everything the second this nebbiolo entered my glass.
Castello di Verduno makes some interesting, fun and easy drinking wines such as their bottlings of Pelaverga which include a bianco, a rosso and a sparkling rosato. I have worked a lot with their Pelavergas and some Barbaresco as well but tasting their Barolo is a different story. These expressions of Nebbiolo show that they aren't just about fun and games all the time but can put out a serious traditional styled bottle of Barolo that is absolutely delicious.
Castello di Verduno gets their name from the village of Verduno in the north most part of the Barolo DOCG right above La Morra. Monvigliero, the grand cru of the area is known for its fine white marl, also known as "Marne di Sant' Agata''. The soil produces age-worthy wines that are distinct and aromatically complex. The 2007 Riserva (aged at least 30 months in botti grandi) was already so expressive with layers and layers of classic nebbiolo rose, cherry, liquorish and tar unfolding from the nose. The tannins were very present but not overwhelming as many traditional 2007 Barolos are at this point in their life.
A look from near the top of the CDV Monvigliero vineyard, captured courtesy of Levi Dalton
mercoledì 17 settembre 2014
|The first saber of the day, Billecart-Salmon Extra Brut NV in magnum|
The gorgeous weather for the beginning of fall this month inspired me to bring everyone to the beach for a mid september birthday celebration. I figured if I'm turning 30 I might as well make it that much more ridiculous and get everyone together on the idea of bringing magnums instead of normal format wine bottles. Hey, we are already illegally drinking on the beach so lets just say fuck it and start sabering some big ass bottles of champy.
The beach was Fort Tilden, an old military base, now hidden gem for beaches in New York City. You really don't feel like you are just minutes from Brooklyn and New York.
|Nick Leplant, moments before the sabering of a Ferrari magnum|
|Champagne of the day, shout out to James Obrien of Maialino for the Jacques Lassaigne Blanc de Blanc|
|Will Edwards of Elan, NYC with a sick magnum of Madiran 1996, made from 100% Tannat, delicious.|
|Thanks to Blake Noyes for the fly ass photography (far right kimono) and thanks to all these beautiful people!|
venerdì 22 agosto 2014
Pouring some Ribolla out for the lost.
Its amazing to watch the improvement of a wine over a period of time. Something you can only really experience by working in a restaurant and tasting the same wine every single day. Even a very simple pure Ribolla Gialla.
Thank you Paolo for letting the COF2011 crew into your family's home and opening some very memorable wines with us.