Monday, August 1, 2011

Shimmering orange reflections of '85 Barbaresco Santo Stefano di Neive


When I was given the chance to pick out some wine for a couple having dinner with a $3,000 gift certificate (in wine) I immediately knew in which direction to turn.  With over 17,000 bottles and a choice of around 3,000 wines in the cellar I turned to Piedmont.  Selling mostly big name French wines I wanted to open a classic Italian wine that had some age on it. I reached for an '85 Bruno Giacosa Barbaresco selling for slightly under $1,000.  They paired with a Cotes de Boeuf and later some cheeses.  They were excited to share a glass with me afterwards and i couldn't have been more excited myself.

The Barbaresco from Santo Stefano has been called ''Baroloesque'' and Bruno Giacosa himself has been quoted, saying ''it is more Barolo than Barbaresco.''

Do Bianchi has some wonderful Giacosa adventures here with some more recent vintages along with the story of Bruno's controversial decision to not bottle the 2006 vintage.  It is very informative and is what held me over up until my first opportunity to taste the legendary wine...


Bruno Giacosa 1985 Barbaresco Santo Stefano di Neive Riserva (Red Label)
 
The colour of this wine was simply mesmerizing.  Partially brick red but also very orange with glowing orange reflections that seduce a lover of Nebbiolo.  This bottle delivered everything I ever wanted in Nebbiolo and more.  The nose was very intense with forest, cantina, and ripe Taleggio cheese.  On the palate it completely stuns you by throwing in some of the freshest and most delicious fruit with notes of raspberry liquor followed by layers of barnyard and a sprocking acidity!  by the nose you would never expect such a healthy fruited wine, but it's in very good condition and can age some more years or be heavily enjoyed right now.



above, so very hard to capture by photo, finishing the Barbaresco with shimmering orange reflections showing

4 comments:

  1. *wimper* Beautiful account of this 'great bottle' moment. Your wine writing is accessible, non pretentious, and always love the photos.

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  2. 1989 S. Stefano was one of the greatest wines I've ever tasted in my life... nothing stimulates mimetic desire like that red label... chapeau bas, man... great choice...

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  3. agreed! holy smokes, still dreaming of that wine...

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