Uncorking this 1971 Fontana Fredda Barolo this weekend at Maialino in New York City
was a bit like opening a coffin in The Langhe and experiencing Nebbiolo zombies awakening from the dead to slowly climb into the glass.
At first this wine smelled of rotten corpse, soil and maybe some tar for the sake of tradition. Slowly opening into what reminded me of molded fruit loops covered in forest soil, and eventually into a more focused cherry with long classic Nebbiolo notes but still with a sense of rotting materials. The acid was healthy as hell and the colour was notably a few more notches towards ruby than I expected. I have had 80's Barbaresco and Barolo that were much more orange in colour. But this was a fabulous and memorable wine and I believe we enjoyed the last bottle stocked at Maialino.